As far as I know, Hornby don't fit decoders for individual customers. (they might if your name was Elizabeth II

) It's a case of buying DCC fitted or fitting your own decoder to a DCC ready loco or to a non DCC loco. (or getting someone to do it for you)
In the case of DCC ready it's really quite simple. Remove body, remove DCC blanking plug, plug decoder in, test run, if all OK re-fit body, enjoy!
Can dc and DCC work together? Yes and no. You cannot have a dc controller and a DCC controller connected at the same time but it is usually quite simple to have a changeover switch to choose between the two, or you could disconnect one and then connect the other.
It is possible to have a dc loco running under control of some DCC controllers, though not recommended. The reason being that dc locos make a horrible buzzing, squealing noise due to the high frequency DCC signal making the motor oscillate. This can cause rapid overheating of the motor, resulting in burn outs. This will happen even if the loco is left standing while other (DCC) locos are being run. Do not leave dc locos on the track. The only time I would run a dc loco on DCC is as a quick test.
DCC locos can (usually) be run on a dc controller but only if the dc controller does NOT use feedback or PWM (pulse width modualtion) or other electronics. Relco or other high frequency track cleaners (eg Gaugemaster) will also kill a DCC decoder. There are settings (CVs) in most decoders to allow or disallow dc working. I believe it is an NMRA requirement that DCC locos can be run on dc.
Different decoders for different locos? Yes. Some locos will need a heavier duty decoder than others. Some will only have room for a small decoder. Heljan locos are known to be heavy current users and need a higher power decoder. Most of the DCC ready locos from Hornby and Bachmann are fairly low current users and so only need a lighter duty decoder. You could use a high power decoder if you could fit it in (higher output decoders can be a bigger than lower powered ones). It's a bit of a balancing act, cost, size, power and what sort of performance you are happy with. There are some users who fit Lenz gold decoders (quite expensive) in every loco they have. Others (like myself) are quite happy with a cheap Hornby or Bachmann decoder in most locos. I've also got a couple of TCS direct plug in decoders. In theory you should test the "stall current" of each and every loco before choosing a decoder to suit. Old Triang locos can be heavy current users and it is best to test each and every one..
DCC friendly. Hmmm. Not really. I don't regard any engine as DCC friendly if it isn't DCC ready. Virtually any loco can be converted, it's just a matter of working out where to fit the decoder, how much time you are prepared to spend doing it and whether it's worth it. Bachmann split chassis locos are best avoided until you have some experience on simpler chassis. You could also hugely devalue some collectors items by fitting a decoder.
Sapphire decoders have not been released yet AFAIK. Use the Hornby R8215 or R8249 or the Bachmann 36-553 (8 pin plug) or 36-554 (21 pin plug).
The idea of DCC is that any NMRA compliant decoder
should work with any NMRA compliant controller. The best way of choosing a controller is to try them all (or at least those you can afford). Just because a controller is regarded as "the best", doesn't mean it will suit you. Some people prefer a rotary speed control, for instance and some prefer a push button or joystick. There is also the power output to consider, the number of locos you will be running at the same time, do you want to operate points from the controller or use conventional switches? Do you want to connect it to a PC? You may be able to try different controllers at a model shop or maybe at a local model railway club where you might find someone who would be willing to fit decoders for you at minimal cost, or help you do it yourself.